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              Bespoke
              Lasts
              Shoe & Boot
              Ugg Boots
              Dictionary
              Shoes
              Handmade
              Contents
              Introduction
              4
              Text
              10
                  Taking Measurements
              12
                  The Draft
              14
                  The Length and Width of the Foot
              15
                  The Foot Imprint
              16
                  The Foot from Different Angles
              17
                  The Bone Structure of the Foot
              18
                  The Musculature of the Foot
              20
                  Phases of Walking
              22
                  The Arches
              24
                  Common Malformations
              25
                  Shoe Sizes
              26
                        French Sizes
              26
                        English Sizes
              26
                        American Sizes (USA)
              27
                        Metric Sizes
              27
                  Girth Measurements
              27
                  Width Numbering
              28
                  Foot ID
              29
              Lasts
              30
                  Why Do We Need Lasts?
              32
                  "The Cobbler Should Stick to His Lasts"
              33
                  The Symmetric Last and the Asymmetric Last
              34
                  The Raw Material of the Last
              36
                  Cutting It Up
              38
                  Heat-Treating and Dying
              39
                  The Lastmaker
              40
                  Preparing the Custom-Made Last by Hand
              42
                  Preshaping
              43
                  Rough Copying
              44
                  Fine Copying
              44
                  Final Adjustments
              45
                  Custom-Made Lasts
              46
                        The Removal Method
              46
                        The Addition Method
              46
                        Corrected Custom-made Lasts
              47
                  Characteristic Custom-made Lasts
              48
                  Putting the Last to the Test
              49
                  The After-life of the Last
              50
              Shoe Styles
              52
                  "Shoes Makyth Man"
              54
                  Footwear Fashion
              56
                  Basic Types of Classic Men's Shoes
              58
                  The Full-brogue and Semi-brogue
              59
                  The Oxford
              60
                  The Derby
              62
                  The Monk
              66
                  The Slipper
              68
                  Summer Shoes
              70
                  Boots
              72
                  The Design
              74
                  The Form
              76
                  Typical Forms
              77
                  A Choice of Colors
              78
                  Combining Color and Leather
              80
                  Golf Shoes
              82
                  Contrasting Colors: Black and White
              84
              The Upper
              86
                  Leather
              88
                  Preparation for Tanning
              90
                  Posttanning Procedures and Finishing
              93
                  Clicking
              95
                  Box Calf
              96
                  Cowhide
              98
                  Exotic Leathers
              99
                        Lizard Skin
              100
                        Crocodile Skin
              101
                  Accessories for Shoe Uppers
              103
                  Preparation for Assembling the Shoe Upper
              104
                  Gimping
              105
                  Brogueing
              106
                  Decorations on the Toe Cap
              108
                  Reinforcing the Upper
              111
                  Stitching the Upper
              112
                  The Lining
              114
                  Finishing the Upper
              115
              The Shoe
              116
                  The Shoemaker's Workshop
              118
                  The Shoemaker's Guild
              120
                  Industrialization and its Consequences
              122
                  Construction of the Shoe
              124
                  The ABCs of the Shoe
              126
                  The Welted Shoe
              129
                  The Double-Stitched Shoe
              129
                  Pit Tanning
              130
                  Wonders of Nature
              131
                  Leather for the Lower Parts
              132
                  Cutting Out the Lower Parts
              133
                  The Insole
              134
                  The Feather
              135
                  Preparing the Upper
              136
                  The Counter
              137
                  The Side Reinforcements
              138
                  The Adhesive
              139
                  Lasting
              140
                  Hammering the Shoe
              141
                  The Welted Shoe
              143
                  Cobbler's Thread
              144
                  The Seam
              145
                  Stitching the Welt
              146
                  Completing the Welt: the Rand
              148
                  Soling the Shoe
              150
                  The Outsole
              152
                  Making Stitches on the Outsole
              153
                  Double-stitching
              154
                  Completing the Welt Stitching
              155
                  The Double-stitched Shoe
              157
                  The Welt Seam
              158
                  Preparting for the Second Row of Stitching
              159
                  The Midsole Seam
              160
                  The Outsole Seam
              160
                  The Heel
              162
                  The Correct Measurement
              163
                  The Second Rand
              164
                  The Construction of the Heel
              165
                  Measuring and Shaping the Heel
              166
                  Rubber Heel Pieces
              167
                  Finishing the Sole and Heel
              168
                  Ornamentation
              170
                  Removing the Last
              172
                  Finishing the Inside of the Shoe
              173
                  Insole Covers
              174
                  Arch Supports
              174
                  The Three-part Shoe Tree
              176
                  The Sprung Shoe Tree
              177
                  Finishing the Completed Shoe
              179
                  Suitable Shoelaces
              181
                  Packing
              181
              Caring for Shoes
              182
                  Cleaning
              184
                  The Ten Golden Rules of Shoe Care
              185
                  The Art of Shoe Cleaning
              186
                  Types of Shoe Trees
              188
                  The Shoe Horn
              189
                  "If the Shoe Pinches..."
              190
                  Shoe Repairs
              191
                  Repairs to the Toe Piece and the Heel
              192
                  Replacing the Sole and Heel
              193
              Workshops
              194
                  Shoes Fit for a King: Lobbs in London and Paris
              196
                  London and Budapest Meet: Benjamin Klemann in Basthorst
              198
                  Form Follows Function: Himer & Himer in Baden-Baden
              199
                  A Budapest renaissance: Laszolo Vass
              200
                  The Name is a Brand: Balint in Vienna
              201
                  Style, Success, and Quality: Materna in Vienna
              201
                  Four Generations of Outstanding Quality: Berluti in Paris
              202
                  Another Wonder of Rome: Gatto
              203
                  A Commitment to Quality: E. Vogel in New York
              204
                  These Shoes Are Made for Walking: Oliver Moore in New York
              205
              Appendix
              Glossary
              206
              Bibliography
              211
              Acknowledgments
              211
              Index
              212
              Illustrations
              216


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              Walrus Shoe & Leather, Co.,
              Manufacturers of the finest Period and Theatrical Footwear, by Larry Waller, Delavan, WI USA
              HomeAbout, FAQ, Links, Policies, Services, Shipping, HCC, Site Map; Lasts: 7000, 4500, 4000, 3086, 1200, 1100, 900, 865, 503/M, 500, 483, 130, 9/Kids, Bonnie; Jewelry: Charms, Earrings, Lapel Pins, Tie Tacks; Books: by George Koleff, Shoe and Boot Design Manual, Last Design & Making Manual, How to Make Ugg Boots, also the Dictionary of Leather Working Tools by R.A. Salaman, Handmade Shoes for Men by L醩zlo Vass and Magda Moln醨, Shoes by Linda O'Keeffe. Hand Tools, Machines, Findings/Components

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